What to do if pipes freeze: thaw them safely, what a burst pipe costs, what insurance covers, and how to pay

First: is it frozen, or has it already burst?

A frozen pipe shows up as a faucet that runs slowly or not at all while others work, usually on an exterior wall, in a crawlspace, garage, attic or under a sink on a cold wall. Frost on the outside of a pipe or a slight bulge are other signs. A burst pipe shows up as water where it shouldn't be: a wet ceiling, a damp wall, water in the crawlspace, or a drop in water pressure throughout the house. Ice expands as it forms, so the split usually happens while the pipe is frozen and the flood comes when it thaws. That's why the first rule is: know where your main shut-off valve is before you start warming anything.

What to do if pipes freeze: step by step

1. Open the affected faucet, both hot and cold. Moving water helps melt the ice and gives pressure somewhere to go.
2. Find the frozen section. Follow the pipe from the faucet toward the exterior wall or unheated space; the frozen part is often the coldest, sometimes frosted.
3. Warm it gently, starting at the faucet end and working toward the ice. Use a hair dryer, a heating pad, an electric heat tape rated for pipes, warm (not boiling) towels, or a space heater in the room. Keep the dryer moving.
4. Never use an open flame, a propane torch, a kerosene heater or boiling water. Pipes have been ruptured and houses set on fire this way every winter.
5. Check other faucets. One frozen pipe usually means others are at risk; open cabinet doors under sinks and let cold faucets drip.
6. Turn up the heat and keep it on, including in rooms you don't use.
7. If you can't find or reach the frozen section, or it's inside a wall, call a plumber. They have pipe-thawing equipment and can check for splits.

If a pipe has burst

1. Shut off the main water valve (usually where the line enters the house, near the meter or in the basement or garage). If you can't find it, shut off at the meter or call the water utility.
2. Turn off the water heater if the supply is off, so the tank doesn't run dry and burn out.
3. Kill the electricity to any area where water is near outlets, appliances or the panel.
4. Open faucets to drain the lines and relieve pressure.
5. Photograph everything before you start moving or drying: the pipe, the water, the damaged materials. Insurers want to see the source and the extent.
6. Start removing water and moving belongings; mould starts within 24 to 48 hours. Keep receipts for fans, dehumidifiers and any emergency help.
7. Call a plumber, then your insurer. Most policies require you to prevent further damage, so the emergency repair comes first.

What a frozen or burst pipe costs to fix

Typical national ranges from cost guides and plumber quotes; emergency rates, regional labor and access move the number. Get the plumber's price in writing before work starts where you can.

The pattern to notice: the pipe itself is usually the cheap part. What the water touches is the expensive part, which is why the first hour (shut-off, photos, drying) decides the bill more than the plumber's rate does.

Does homeowners insurance cover frozen or burst pipes?

Usually, partly. Standard homeowners policies cover sudden and accidental water damage from a burst pipe: the wet drywall, flooring, ceilings, cabinets and belongings, and the cost of drying and remediation. What they typically do not cover is the pipe repair itself (some policies exclude it, some cover the tear-out needed to reach it but not the pipe), damage from slow leaks or long-term seepage, and mould beyond a small sub-limit.

Two exclusions bite in winter. Most policies deny claims where the home was left unheated and the water wasn't shut off, especially in a vacant or seasonal property; the policy will say something like "unless you used reasonable care to maintain heat." And a deductible applies, commonly $1,000 to $2,500, so a $1,800 claim may not be worth filing. Read the water damage section of your policy, document the thermostat setting, and call the insurer promptly; most require notice without unreasonable delay.

What to send the adjuster: photos of the burst pipe before repair, the plumber's invoice stating the cause ("split from freezing"), photos and a list of damaged items, drying and remediation invoices, and receipts for emergency measures. Our guide to insurance and foundation repair covers the same claim-documentation logic for slab leaks.

How to pay for the repair and the part insurance doesn't

Most frozen-pipe bills are a plumber's invoice plus a deductible plus whatever the policy excludes. Three routes cover nearly all of them:

• The plumber's financing plan. Larger plumbing companies offer monthly payments on the truck through a lender partner, with a soft-pull pre-qualification. Ask the APR after any promotional period and whether the price is the same for cash.
• An unsecured personal loan. Funds in days, pays any plumber or remediation company like cash. For a few thousand dollars, a short term keeps interest small: $3,000 over 24 months at an illustrative 10.99% is about $140 a month and $355 in interest; over 60 months the payment drops to $65 but interest rises to $913.
• A 0% APR card for a bill you can clear in the promotional window.

If the failure exposes a bigger problem (old galvanized pipe, polybutylene, repeated freezes in the same wall), a repipe is a larger, planned job that fits an unsecured loan or a home equity product. Our plumbing financing page compares the options with example payments, and water heater replacement cost covers the other common winter plumbing emergency. If your credit is on the lower side, start with a soft-pull pre-qualification rather than applying everywhere at once.

How to prevent frozen pipes next time

• Insulate exposed pipes in crawlspaces, attics, garages and exterior walls with foam sleeves; add heat tape on the worst runs.
• Let cold-wall faucets drip when temperatures drop below about 20°F, and open cabinet doors under sinks.
• Keep the heat at 55°F or above, even when away; set a smart thermostat alert for low temperatures.
• Disconnect hoses and shut off and drain exterior spigots and irrigation lines in the fall.
• Seal gaps where cold air reaches pipes: around vents, hose bibs, and foundation penetrations.
• If leaving for more than a few days in winter, shut off the main and drain the lines, or have someone check the house. This also protects your insurance claim.
• Install a leak sensor or a smart shut-off valve near the water heater and under sinks; some insurers discount for them.

Questions to ask the plumber

1. What caused the split, and will you state that on the invoice (for the insurance claim)?
2. Are there other sections at risk, and should they be insulated or rerouted now?
3. What is the price for the repair, and separately for opening and closing the wall?
4. If this is old galvanized or polybutylene pipe, what would a partial or full repipe cost?
5. Do you offer financing, through which lender, and is the price the same for cash?
6. Is the work permitted and warrantied?

Questions to ask every lender

1. What is the APR including fees, and is the rate fixed?
2. Is there an origination fee, and is it deducted from the loan amount?
3. Is any promotional period deferred interest or waived interest?
4. Is there a prepayment penalty?
5. When is the plumber paid, and when does my first payment start?
6. Does checking my options use a soft or hard credit inquiry?

Frequently asked questions